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3 Day Hiking Itinerary on the Cabot Trail: How to see EPIC fall foliage

November 4, 2023October 27, 2021 by Natalie

One of my favourite fall activities is to visit Cape Breton to go hiking. The fall is the perfect time to visit for hiking because the weather is cooler, and the foliage is gorgeous to look at. Below is a 3 day hiking itinerary for how to see the fall foliage around the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.

Tip: Are you interested in visiting Sydney, Nova Scotia too while you are in Cape Breton? If so, then read this post here: 3 day Cape Breton Itinerary.

Important to know before you go

Cape Breton is a 3 hour drive from Halifax, Nova Scotia. To maximize your time in Cape Breton, it is suggested that you drive to Cape Breton the night before.

The Cabot Trail is a loop, so you can do this itinerary in either direction. Read everything you need to know about the Cabot Trail here.

Check the time it gets dark and plan your day accordingly. On this itinerary it got dark at around 6pm. This allowed for enough time to do one big hike (7-10km), and one shorter hike (4-5km).

The best time to visit Cape Breton for fall foliage

The best time to visit Cape Breton for the foliage depends on the weather, but anytime between the 2nd or 3rd week in October. The photos from this trip are from October 21 to October 23rd. But I have gone in the 1st week of October and the leaves were still very beautiful then.

Summary: 3 Day Hiking Itinerary around the Cabot Trail

Day 1: Drive from Baddeck to the National Park. Hikes: Freshwater lake look-off (less than 1km), Franey Trail (approx. 8.5km) and Middlehead Hike (approx. 4.5km) OR Smokey Mountain Gondola. Overnight in Ingonish.

Day 2: Broad Cove Mountain Trail (2.5km), Mary Ann Falls (0.5km), Theodore Fricker Hike (3.5km) OR Skyline Trail & MacIntosh Brook Trail; Beulach Ban Falls (0km). Overnight in Cheticamp.

Day 3: Gypsum Mine Lake (2.5km), Acadian Trail (9.5km), and Egypt Falls (1km). Overnight in Port Hood or Mabou

Day 4: Drive back home to Halifax (or to your next destination).

Day 1 in Cape Breton

3 day hiking itinerary cabot trail for day 1

9:30AM: We start off our 3 day hiking itinerary around the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton by driving 1 hour from Baddeck to the entrance of the National Park. The views are very pretty along the way, and there are LOTS of spots to pull over.

10:30AM: Freshwater Lake Look-off (0.3km)

This is a short and steep hike which only takes about 15 minutes total. If you want a beautiful view to see the fall foliage without committing to a long hike, then THIS is the one to do!

11:00AM: Franey hike (approx 8km)

The second trail of the day is Franey, a personal favourite of mine. It’s a looped trail, and challenging, but the views make it all worthwhile. The reasons why it is challenging is because of the length and the steepness. There are a few staircases – but nothing too crazy!

Bring your lunch snacks so that you can eat when you get to the top!

Go in a counter-clockwise direction if you want it to be less steep on the way up, and more steep on the way down. If you go in this direction, the way up will be an old ATV path with no viewpoints. But, there is a short path that will lead you off the trail to Warren Lake (it isn’t marked, so use the AllTrails App so you don’t miss it). But, it will be more steep on the way down and hard on the knees.

Go in a clockwise direction if you want it to be more steep on the way up, and less steep on the way down. In this direction there are more look-offs and views. You will start the trail by going through wooded pathways with staircases. Most people complete the trail in this direction.

4:00PM: Middle Head Hiking Trail (3.8km) OR Smokey Mountain Gondola

The Middle Head Hiking trail is conveniently located only 8 minutes away from Franey. It goes along the peninsula overlooking the ocean, with a backdrop of mountains.

TIP: If you are too tired to hike after Franey, then an alternative to see the fall foliage from above is by going up the Gondola at Smokey Mountain. The fee is $45 for an adult.

6:00PM: Dinner

Make your way back to your accommodation for the night in Ingonish. A lot of places close early, so I recommend bringing food to make in your hotel.

Day 2 in Cape Breton

3 day hiking itinerary cabot trail for day 2

10:30AM: Broad Cove Mountain Hike (2.6km)

After breakfast, begin your day of hiking at Broad Cove Mountain. This is a short and steep hike. It isn’t TOO strenuous because of the short length, but there are a few stairs. There are a couple of look-offs along the way, and a great panoramic view at the end. If you are short on time but want a good view, this is also another great choice.

11:30AM: Mary Ann Falls (0.8km)

Drive 15 minutes down the road from Broad Cove Mountain (your GPS will show you the way!). This is a short walk to the waterfall from the parking lot, and there are two viewpoints to see it.

2:30PM: Theodore Fricker Mountain Hike (3.7 km) *OR* Skyline (8km) and MacIntosh Brook (1.8km) trail.

There are two options for how to continue your day: The Theodore Fricker Mountain Trail OR the Skyline and MacIntosh Brook trails.

Option #1: The Theodore Fricker Mountain Trail (aka: the Peak at Tenerife Mountain)

The reason why there are two options is because the Theodore Fricker mountain trail is VERY steep and challenging. The first 70% of the hike has a gentle incline. But this changes fast and the remaining 30% is all very steep and uphill.

There are no switchbacks, because it’s just straight up! There is a section near the top that is more rocky and almost like a scramble.

But the view from the top has the most beautiful view of all hikes, especially in the fall.

I did this with my two dogs, but they are athletic and experienced hikers. We kept them on leash the entire time. Keep this in mind if you decide to hike this trail. You can always turn around if it seems like it will be too difficult!

Drone photo of the peak at Tenerife Mountain (Theodore Fricker Mountain Hike) – can you see us?

Option #2: The Skyline and MacIntosh Brook Trails.

If you decide NOT hike the Theodore Fricker Mountain Trail, then there are other hikes to add to your 3 day hiking itinerary around the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton. The good news is that there are SO many options, for all lengths and fitness levels.

If you have not been to Cape Breton before, then I recommend the Skyline Trail (8km) and Macintosh Brook Trail (1.8km).

The MacIntosh Brook Trail is a short, family friendly trail with a waterfall at the end.

The Skyline is THE Cape Breton trail that you see in all of the advertisements of Cape Breton. It is great for first-timers because of the view, it is long but easy to complete, and very well-maintained. I recommend doing it as an out-and-back since there isn’t much to see as a loop. This is also the only trail where dogs are not allowed. It is also VERY busy.

4:30PM: Beulach Ban Falls.

If you have completed the Theodore Fricker Mountain Trail, then the next stop will be Beulach Ban Falls. You can practically see the waterfalls from the parking lot, so it’s a very short walk.

If you choose option 2 and hiking the Skyline and MacIntosh Brook Trail, then you will visit this waterfall first.

6:30PM: Arrive in Cheticamp.

You will see A LOT of spots to pull-over to admire the view while you drive to Cheticamp. Take your time driving while the sun sets. A bonus is that the fall foliage will look like it’s glowing thanks to golden hour.

Grab a bite to eat in Cheticamp (listen to live fiddle music at the Doryman Pub & Grill). Or, cook dinner in your accommodation.

Day 3 in Cape Breton

3 day hiking itinerary cabot trail road trip itinerary for day 3.

10:30AM: Gypsum Mine Lake (2.6km)

This is a busy trail. But it’s short and easy, and has a lake that is great for swimming in the summer, and has a beautiful look-off that is popular on Instagram.

We arrived at 10:00AM and the parking lot was almost full. So if you want to be able to get your photograph from the look-off point without waiting in a line (literally), then get there early.

12:00PM: Acadian Trail (9km)

This is a looped trail which is so beautiful in the fall. It is rated moderate in difficulty because of the length and you are going uphill (although, the trail is definitely NOT as steep as Franey).

I recommend going in a counter-clockwise direction because then you will start your trail by going up a gentle incline throughout the forest and along a brook. There are no viewpoints during this half of the trail, and the trail is more uneven, but the forest and brook are really beautiful.

At the top of the trail there are panoramic views of Cape Breton, and then as you descend the mountain you will be able to see all of the look-offs on your way down. The trail is more even on the way down too.

5:00PM: Egypt Falls

A short and yet another steep hike to a HUGE waterfall. Follow the GPS directions, and then look for the orange pylon on the side of the road to find your entrance. There are ropes to assist you down, but it only takes 10 minutes to reach the waterfall.

6:00PM Dinner and drive to overnight accommodation

Spend your final night in Port Hood or Mabou before driving back to Halifax the next day.

I hope that you find this 3 day hiking itinerary helpful for planning your trip to hike in Cabot Trail in Cape Breton to see beautiful fall foliage. Have you visited Cape Breton, or hiked any of these trails? Let me know which trail is your favourite (or that you would like to do) in the comments below!

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The Ultimate Guide for Exploring the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton: what you need to know

October 23, 2020 by Natalie

Driving the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton is one of the most spectacular activities to do in Nova Scotia. The scenery is so unique compared to the rest of Nova Scotia, with tall hills and winding roads. There are plenty of hikes, waterfalls and live musical events that make Cape Breton truly a worthwhile place to visit. Below are my top tips for visiting the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.

First things first – what is the Cabot Trail?

The Cabot Trail is a scenic roadway 298km (or 186 miles) long that circles around the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. To enter the National Park, you need to pay a fee of $7.50 a day (as of 2020). This gives you access to the park and all of the hikes!

map of cape breton showing the cabot trail — Cabot Trail in Cape Breton

How long does it take to go around the Cabot Trail?

If you were drive around the Cabot Trail without stopping it would take about 5 hours. But where’s the fun in that! It is possible to drive the Cabot Trail in one day, but it would be really rushed. It is recommended a minimum of 2 full days to drive on the Cabot Trail.

Read my 3 day itinerary for Cape Breton here.

Which direction is the best way to drive around the Cabot Trail?

The short answer is – either direction. I promise! Each direction is incredibly scenic, but here is a breakdown of each direction so that you can choose:

If you drive clockwise: for the majority of the drive you will be on the inside lane. You will for the most part need to cross the road to get to the pull-over stops.

If you drive counter-clockwise: for the majority of the drive you will be on the outside lane and be closest to the water. It will be easier to pull off to the side of the road where the majority of the look-off points are too. In the morning, you will be on the same side as the sunrise.

When I drove the Cabot Trail, I drove counter-clockwise. There were sections when I was on the outside lane overlooking the water. As the road twists and turns you will end up with views on the left hand side, and be on the inside lane. There were occasions where we had to turn around to look at the view behind us, and it would have been easier to see them if we had travelled clockwise. The same could be said for driving clockwise too, though.

So to summarize: go in whichever direction you want and is most convenient for you. The views are equally as good. There are loads of pullover stops so that you can fully appreciate the views too.

cape breton road. the cabot trail road surrounded by trees — Driving along the Cabot Trail in the counter-clockwise direction. In this particular section we were in the “inside” lane.

Is it scary to drive on the Cabot Trail?

A lot of concerns before driving the Cabot Trail is if it is scary or not. If you are driving in the dead of winter in ice and snow, then yes it is. BUT, chances are you will be driving in the summer or fall months (the best time to go).

It isn’t scary to drive the Cabot Trail. It can get twisty and have steep inclines, but the roads are wide and you aren’t close to the edge. Here is a video showing the most “extreme” part of the trail (driving in the counter-clockwise direction):

@natalieexplores
Driving the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia. This was probably the steepest section. #roadtrip #novascotia #capebreton #cabottrail
♬ We’re Not Just Friends – Parks, Squares and Alleys

When is the best time to visit?

In my personal opinion, Autumn (from around October 8th-18th) is the BEST time to see the Cabot Trail. Seeing the vibrant fall foliage from above is stunning.

The waterfalls in the fall are exploding with water and extra “water-y.” In the summer, the waterfalls are still incredible, but they are a bit more dry. Read my 5 most beautiful waterfalls to visit in Cape Breton – with minimal hiking.

The weather in the fall is much cooler, so you won’t feel like dying from heat exhaustion during an uphill hike. The only downside to traveling in the fall is that the weather can be more unstable. It also gets dark earlier, which means less time exploring during the day.

For crowds, the autumn months are generally less busy too. With the exception during Thanksgiving Weekend during Cape Breton’s Celtic Colours Music Festival. The added bonus to traveling during this time is that there are plenty of places to enjoy traditional fiddle music!

If you travel after the Thanksgiving weekend, a few places start to shut down. If there is a restaurant or activity you want to do, check online beforehand to make sure they are open.

Tips for Hiking

If you are planning to hike, you have LOTS of options. There are 26 hikes that range in difficulty and length. My best advice is to research each trail on the National Park’s website to see which one’s peaks your interest. A good rule of thumb is 2 hikes per day.

Allow plenty of time for stops to enjoy the scenery too!

The AllTrails app is extremely useful for planning hikes. It provides a map and shows your location on the trail. It also shows tips, photos and time it took others to hike.

Dogs are not allowed on the Skyline Trail. If you want to bring your dogs, unfortunately this one isn’t for them.

Bring lots of snacks! Save money (and time!) by bringing breakfasts to eat in the morning, and snacks for hiking.

Be careful of the wild life. There are black bears, coyote and moose. It is best to hike with others. Bring either coyote or bear spray with you (can be purchased from Canadian Tire or Amazon). There are signs on every trail which will tell you what to do if you encounter an animal. Also, keep an eye out for them when driving!

Download an offline map of Cape Breton since cell service is VERY spotty. There are emergency phones along the Cabot Trail just in case you run into an emergency. The National Park provides a map too, so keep this too just in case.

Wear lots of layers! On one hike, it switched between rain, hail and bright blue sunny hikes – all within a 10 minutes. Wear a hat, gloves, and layers (I wore a T-shirt, sweatshirt and water-resistant winter coat and was fine).

franey trail in cape breton — Franey hike in Cape Breton National Park

Have you been to the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia? What would you recommend seeing? Let me know in the comments below!

cabot trail in cape breton pinterest graphic

Road Trip to Yarmouth Nova Scotia and the Acadian Shore: Beautiful destinations to see along the way!

September 2, 2020 by Natalie

If you going on a road trip around Nova Scotia, driving to Yarmouth (the most southern point of Nova Scotia) and along the Acadian Shore offers scenic and coastal views along the way. Yarmouth is a colourful town to stop in with lots of cozy cafes, museums and the scenic Cape Forchu Lighthouse. The Acadian Shore has an abundance of beaches, coastlines and Acadian culture to experience. Below I share where to go and what to do on a Nova Scotia Roadtrip to Yarmouth and the Acadian Shore!

nova scotia road trip to yarmouth and the French shore

Tips and Recommendations for your road trip to Yarmouth Nova Scotia

This is meant to be a guide for places you can see in Yarmouth and along the French Shore on a multi-day road trip around Nova Scotia.

Depending on where you begin and end your road trip, and how long you spend at each location, you can visit these sites in one day. I drove to these sites from my home in the South Shore (about 1.5 hours away from Yarmouth) and it took me the whole day.

It is not recommended to do this as a day trip from Halifax. It takes a long time to drive around Nova Scotia, and Yarmouth is a 3.5 hour drive from Halifax. If you want to visit Yarmouth from Halifax, I recommend exploring the South Shore and spending the night along the way before you begin this road trip.

If you are coming from Maine, USA, the CAT ferry takes you directly to Yarmouth!

What to Do in Yarmouth

Yarmouth is a small and colourful town and can be explored in an afternoon. There are lots of museums and shop to check out.

The most popular place to see is Cape Forchu Lighthouse. The drive to the lighthouse is very scenic, with lots of little beaches to explore along the way.

Once you reach the lighthouse, there is a rose-lined pathway overlooking the ocean that loops around the property, and informational signs explaining the geology of the area. There is also small restaurant at the lighthouse.

road trip to yarmouth nova scotia cape forchu lighthouse — Cape Forchu Lighthouse, Yarmouth Nova Scotia

The colourful houses in downtown Yarmouth

The boardwalk along the waterfront in Yarmouth

Where to eat in Yarmouth

Iceworks Dairy and Espresso Bar, 313 Main St., Yarmouth, NS

This cozy cafe offers sushi, ramen, and my personal favourite – bubble tea!

Gaia Global Kitchen, 222 Main St, Yarmouth, NS B5A 1C8

The best place to eat for gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian dishes. The menu has a variety of options from all over the world.

The Shanty Cafe, 6B Central St, Yarmouth, NS B5A 3H1

This is another gluten-free restaurant serving all day breakfasts, burgers, soups and international food.

The Acadian Shore

After you have spent some time exploring Yarmouth, it is now time to continue your roadtrip along the French Shore and up towards Digby. This part of Nova Scotia has a rich Acadian heritage, and has lots of scenic beaches, lighthouses and churches to see along the way.

Port Maitland Beach

This beach was stunning. I have never seen a beach so clean – there was no seaweed washed ashore, and the sand was so white.

This beach has toilets, a changing room and a tap to wash the sand off of your feet.

road trip to yarmouth nova scotia port maitland beach

Mavillette Beach Provincial Park

This was probably one of the most interesting beaches to explore on our Nova Scotia road trip . The cliffs in the distance were really beautiful, and if you walk down the beach there are rock pools with crabs. It was such a long beach that it felt really private too!

Smugglers Cove

This was probably one of my favourite stops on our Nova Scotia Road trip to Yarmouth and the Acadian Shore. There are about 80 steps leading down to this picturesque cove and cave. When the tide is high you can walk down the steps to the viewing platform. We arrived at low tide and were able to walk along the ocean floor.

Église Sainte-Marie Church

The largest wooden church in North America, this truly is a sight to behold. I was in awe at how TALL the steeple is! It was closed when we arrived, but their hours are 9-5 daily between Mid-May and October. Admission is $2.

Gilbert’s Cove Lighthouse

Not too far off the highway is Gilbert’s Cove Lighthouse. There is a little beach next to it, and the views are really beautiful! We even saw some seals while we were there.

Digby

Technically not along the French shore (it is located in the Annapolis Valley), Digby is the final destination on this road trip to Yarmouth Nova Scotia.

Digby is along the Bay of Fundy, and the tides are dramatic. There are lots of shops and restaurants along the waterfront. Make sure to get their famous clams and chips while you are here!

It will probably be much later in day when you arrive, so there won’t be much time to explore the town of Digby during this road trip to Yarmouth. It is recommended to spend the night here so that you can explore it in more depth and travel along the Digby Neck the next day.

During our road trip, we had dinner along the waterfront in Digby before heading back home (our home was about an hour and a half away from Digby).

Places to stay on your Road Trip to Yarmouth Nova Scotia and the Acadian Shore

Have you traveled around Yarmouth and the French Shore? Are there any stops you would recommend visiting on a road trip to Yarmouth Nova Scotia? Let me know in the comments below!