What I wish I had known before hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu (2 day hike)

To hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, there are a couple of options to choose from: the popular 4 day option, or a 2 day hike.

Both options have their pros and cons, but it is all up to you and your preferences! Below I go in depth on what to expect during the 2 day hike, and what I wish I had known before going.

Reasons why to choose the 2 day Inca trail hike to Machu Picchu.

  • Permits for the 4 day hike sell out really fast. If the 4 day hike is the only option you want to do, book your permit as SOON as they become available. This can be done though the tour group you want to hike with. We did our hike with Alpaca Expeditions.
  • You don’t need to camp on the 2 day hike. During the 4 day hike, you will need to sleep in a tent each night. The tour groups will provide, carry AND set up the tents for you. During the 2 day hike, you spend the night in a hotel. So if you aren’t too keen on camping then the 2 day hike may be a better alternative.
  • The 2 day hike isn’t as physically strenuous as the 4 day hike. If hiking isn’t something you normally do, or you are worried about your physical abilities, then the 2 day hike may be a good alternative.
  • On the 2 day hike you see Machu Picchu TWICE! Once in the afternoon on day 1, and again in the morning on day 2 to watch the sun rise.
  • On day 2, you will have the opportunity to go up Wayna Picchu. When you are hiking the Inca Trail on the 4 day hike, you will wake up at 3am to hike to the Sun Gate. Then, you have the rest of the day to explore Machu Picchu and hike up Hyuna Picchu. On the 2 day hike, you hike to the Sun Gate in the afternoon, and then visit Machu Picchu again the next day. This gives you more time to see Machu Picchu, and hike another mountain without being overly tired. 

What I wish I knew BEFORE I went hiking the Inca Trail

It helps to be in shape before you go.  

Because of the altitude, you will feel out of breathe a lot faster.  Before you go on your trip, practice at home by going on walks uphill, or climbing stairs.  Anything to improve your cardio.  You don’t have to be an Olympic athletic or anything, but I wish I had maybe built up my cardio a bit before going since I was VERY slow moving.

Get a prescription for Diamox.

To help with altitude sickness, get a prescription of Diamox (Acetazolamide) from your doctor or travel clinic before you go.  Check with your Pharmacist to make sure it doesn’t interact with any current medications you may be taking.  Also, one of the side effects is tingling fingers – so don’t be alarmed if that happens to you!

Take time to adjust to the altitude.

You need to adjust to the altitude before hiking Machu Picchu. Spend a few days in Cusco exploring the region before your hike.

Spend the night in Ollantaytambo either before or after your 2 day Inca trail hike. 

The original pick up and drop off points for tour groups is in Cusco, BUT there is the option to also be picked up or dropped off in Ollantaytambo instead! It is A LOT closer to Machu Picchu than Cusco is.  You will have more time to rest, and can explore the beauty of Ollantaytambo!

You will need to carry your own gear.

For the 4 day hikes, the Porters will carry your belongings to the campsites for you.  Since you aren’t camping on the Inca Trail during the 2 day hike, and there are no porters, you will need to carry your own gear. 

Pack your backpack with your essentials that you will need for the 2 day hike.  Your tour group will store your main luggage for you back and their headquarters in Cusco.  I personally left my luggage in my AirBnB that I had booked for the whole week as a base.

Bring a backbag with hip support

This was one of my mistakes. I brought a regular school backpack with me (it’s great bag, but definitely not recommended when you are carrying over 1 liter of water, a change of clothes, and a few other items. Read what I packed for my 2 day hike here)

It wasn’t a deal breaker, but if I brought a backpack that had support around the hips, it would have been a LOT more comfortable.

stairs on the 2 day Inca trail hike
Hiking the Inca Trail

What I wish I knew about the Sun Gate before I went on the 2 day Inca trail hike

On the 2 day Inca trail hike, you will arrive at the Sun Gate in the afternoon.  

What I liked about the 2 day hike is that instead of waking up at 3am to hike in the dark to the Sun Gate, you hike there after your lunch break in Wayna Wayna and arrive at about 1pm.  This section of the trail is more shady, flatter and easier to hike so if you were out of breath during the first half of the hike, no worries! This section is much easier.

The view of Machu Picchu from the Sun gate isn’t the view that you see in the pictures

I felt a little silly asking if the mountain I was looking at was the infamous mountain, since it is from a completely different viewpoint.

The Sun Gate isn’t as busy in the afternoon.

Since the majority of the 4 day hikes aim to arrive at the Sun Gate for the sun rise, I can’t even imagine how busy it would be during that time.  We arrived in the afternoon so it wasn’t as busy, but there were still a lot of people there.  It was hard to find a quiet spot to really take in the beauty.

The only way to enter Machu Picchu through the Sun Gate is if you hike in.

If you really want to see the Sun Gate, and you visit Machu Picchu without hiking, you will need to hike UPHILL for an hour to see it, and then hike back. 

The view of Machu Picchu from the sun gate during the 2 day Inca trail hike
The view of Machu Picchu from the sun gate

What I wish I knew about the bathrooms before my 2 day Inca trail hike

The toilets on the Inca trail are squat toilets.  

On the 2 day inca trail hike, I wasn’t expecting the toilets to be squat toilets. So if you aren’t used to them, it is something to be aware of!  Bring your own toilet paper and hand sanitizer.  Some hiking groups have their own toilets too.

There are bathrooms outside of the entrance to Machu Picchu. 

It costs 2./s to use these, but the line moves quickly and they are clean and NOT squat toilets.   You will need to exit and re-enter Machu Picchu to use these.

What I wish I knew about the 2 day Inca trail hike

  1. Nothing will prepare you for how GORGEOUS it is.

It will literally take your breathe away, the beauty of the Inca Trail is absolutely gorgeous.  During the 2 day, 1 night hike you will have the chance to vist the Wayna Wayna ruins. 

View of Wayna Wayna during the 2 day Inca trail hike
View of Wayna Wayna
  1. On day 2 of the hike, you take the bus to Machu Picchu. 

This is what a lot of travelers normally do to visit Machu Picchu without hiking.  At 5AM, your guide will pick you up from your hotel and you will walk to the bus stop.  Some people wait in the bus line at 3am to go to Machu Picchu, but don’t bother doing this.  The gates of Machu Picchu don’t open until 6am, and the sun doesn’t start to rise until 7:30am.  The buses come SO frequently that you won’t be waiting in line for long.

  1. During the 2 day Inca trail hike Machu Picchu you get a guided 2 hour tour of Machu Picchu, and then you have the remaining time to spend at your leisure.  

I would recommend the guided tour because you will miss a lot of what they point out to you, and you gain a deeper understanding of the history behind Machu Picchu.

  1. Choose the option to hike Wayna (Hyuana) Picchu.

If you want to hike up Wayna Picchu, you will need a permit for this.  Alpaca Expeditions gives you the option to include this when you book your hike. I enjoyed hiking Wayna Picchu during the 2 day Inca trail hike SO much, and found it easier to do than the the hike on day 1.

2 day inca trail hike: the view from Hyana Picchu.
View from Hyana Picchu (Wayna Picchu)

Let me know your thoughts!

Have you been to Machu Picchu or have hiked the Inca Trail? Let me know about your experience in the comments below!

Altitude Sickness: What it feels like and how to prevent it!

If you traveling somewhere with a high altitude (like Cusco, Peru!), there is a chance that you may experience altitude sickness. Altitude sickness can affect anyone – whether you are in shape or not. I traveled in a group to Peru, and here is what altitude sickness felt like for us and what we did to help it.

What does Altitude Sickness Feel Like?

I’ll give you a little backstory. We were on a public bus going to Cusco (not recommended, by the way – either fly to Cusco or go with a reputable tour company). BUT, instead of going around the mountains (like what the safer tour companies do!), we went straight through them! This meant that we reached altitude very quickly, and boy did we feel it.

All of a sudden, I felt very weak. My vision was all dark, and I felt dizzy and nauseous (thankfully I had taken a Gravol before boarding the bus!!). I checked my heart rate and it had dropped. My oxygen levels which are normally at 99%, were now at 85%.

It felt awful. I just closed my eyes, breathed in deeply and tried to calm down. Luckily I was sitting down when we reached altitude, and it only lasted about 5-10 minutes.

My experience was pretty similar to what other people felt too. A few people had vomited (again, I’m glad I took a Gravol!!), some people only felt weak, and someone else in our group didn’t feel anything!!! She had no idea we had reached altitude until she noticed everyone around her was suddenly having a miserable time.

View of Pisac in the Sacred Valley

How to Prevent Altitude Sickness

Don’t let my detailed explanation scare you from ever visiting somewhere high in altitude though!! For most of us, it only lasted about 5-10 minutes. Also, there is a huge difference between altitude sickness, and how the high altitude affects you.

Ascend Gradually

Don’t do what we did and just shoot right up from sea level to 4300m. Part of the reason we took the bus to Cusco from Lima is so that we could ascend gradually. Unfortunately, we were moved from a tour bus that goes around the mountains to a public bus which goes straight up them – this made us go up a lot faster than anticipated.

Take Diamox/Acetazolamide.

Make an appointment with your doctor or local travel clinic and ask for a prescription of Diamox to help with altitude sickness.

One of the side affects is tingly fingers and toes – if this happens to you it’s normal!! I first thought it was because I was losing circulation because of the lack of oxygen, but don’t worry you’re not – it’s just the Diamox working!

Chew on Coco Leaves

I looveeee Coco leaves, they really helped! They can be purchased everywhere in Peru. Our guide on our hike to Machu Picchu told us a tip for how to chew them: fold it in half, and put it on the side of your mouth against your cheek and just let it sit there. Chew on it occasionally. It will make your cheek numb, but it really does help.

Don’t bring coco leaves home with you!!! They are illegal to carry across the border since they are used to make cocaine. Don’t worry, they don’t actually have cocaine in them or it’s affects while they are in their leaf form, so chew away!!

Get in shape

Now remember – Altitude sickness can happen to anyone no matter what your fitness level is. But how easily you are able to walk around with less oxygen definitely helps if you are in shape and your lungs are strong from all of that cardio.

For example, I am not the most in shape – Sure, I like to go on hikes and leisurely strolls along the beach, but when it comes to running I can last for maybe 5 minutes. The fit people in my group who run all the time because it’s fun (for them) were able to walk around no problem. I had to take a lot of breaks because I got out of breathe really easily. Walking up a flight of stairs felt like I had been running!

Cusco in Peru
Cusco – lots of beautiful sites, and very little oxygen! Take your time to adjust.

Tips for your Trip

My biggest tip for preventing altitude sickness is to plan your trip around the altitude!

  • Take it easy on your first day. Since the reason for most people visiting Peru is Machu Picchu, the closest airport is Cusco, so you most likely end up here. Cusco is at a high altitude, so on your first day just take it easy! Wander around if you feel like it, and rest if you need to. This will help you adjust.
  • Give yourself 2-3 days to adjust before hiking Machu Picchu. A lot of the tour groups will recommend this as well. Machu Picchu is at a lower altitude than Cusco, so if you can adjust to Cusco’s level you will be able to handle Machu Picchu a lot easier! You can either spend this time in Cusco, explore the Sacred Valley, go to Ollantaytambo – or all of the above!
  • Plan the higher altitude and more strenuous activities for later in your trip. This will give you plenty of time to adjust! We had planned to hike the alternative Rainbow Mountain – and since this was the highest in altitude we saved this hike for our last day. Was I out of breathe? Yes. But did I get sick from the altitude? No!
Enjoying the beautiful Rainbow Moutains! (and also having a break to catch my breath)

I hope that these tips help with your trip! Have you ever experienced a high altitude? What did it feel like for you? Let me know in the comments below!

Itinerary for 2 Weeks in Peru

There is so much to do in Peru, that it can be difficult to choose how to spend your time.  Allowing extra time to acclimatize to the altitude also makes it tricky.   Here is a itinerary for 2 weeks in Peru, to give you ideas of what you can do there on your trip there!

Short on time?  Here’s a breakdown!
  • Day 1: Arrive in Lima
  • Day 2: Lima
  • Day 3: Travel from Lima to Paracas (day 1 of Peru Hop tour)
  • Day 4: Boat Tour in Paracas & Sand-boarding in Huacachina (day 2 of Peru Hop tour)
  • Day 5: Huacachina and bus ride to Nazca/Cusco (day 3 of Peru Hop tour)
  • Day 6: The overnight bus trip to Cusco (Day 4/last day of Peru Hop tour).
  • Day 7: Cusco
  • Day 8: Pisac Ruins, Market and Animal Sanctuaries Day tour from Cusco
  • Day 9: Machu Picchu 2 day hike
  • Day 10: Machu Picchu hike continued and hiking up Wayna Picchu
  • Day 11: Ollantaytambo, Maras Salt Flats and Moray
  • Day 12: Alternative Rainbow Mountain Hike
  • Day 13: Lima
  • Day 14: Last day in Lima and flight home

Itinerary for 2 weeks in Peru:  the details of what to do!

Day 1:  Fly into Lima.

Almost all flights arrive in Lima at about midnight, so we arrived at our apartment late at night and then went to sleep.

To get from the Airport to our AirBnB we booked a direct taxi with Taxidatum. This saves you the hassle of negotiating a taxi rate with a driver, and is much safer!

Where we stayed: We stayed in the Milaflores district. A very safe neighbourhood, and close to the water and main sights.

Day 2:  Explore Lima.

I personally found that one day in Lima is pretty much all you need to see all of the main areas.  We walked along the waterfront, through “Love Park”, and visited the cats in Kennedy Park.

If you time it right, you can eat ceviche for lunch, and then go to the water park at night.  We saved these for the next time we were in Lima.

decorative building in Milaflores Lima next to a palm tree

Day 3:  Bus ride from Lima to Paracas.

We decided to go to Cusco by bus with a company called Peru Hop.  They take you along what they call the “Gringo Trail.”   So at 7:00am the next morning, we began our journey towards the small sea-side town of Paracas.

We arrived in Paracas at around 1:00pm.  We went for lunch, checked into our hostel and then wandered around Paracas.  You can’t really walk around on the beach with your bare feet because of broken glass, and you can’t go swimming there.  So if it’s a hot day you would need to swim at your hotel’s pool instead. 

There’s a few markets along the waterfront and some restaurants.  We went to a café which was SO good (Café Paracas), and then watched the sunset.  It’s quite a small town, so one day is plenty of time to spend there.  A few other people in our group went on a sunset buggy tour instead (which you can book in Paracas when you arrive).

palm trees in Paracas with the sun setting between them
Sunset in Paracas

Day 4:  Boat Tour in Paracas & Sand-boarding in Huacachina.

This day was our busiest day.  It started off with breakfast at our hostel, and then a boat tour of Barresta’s Island (also known as the “Poor Man’s Gallapocos”) from 8am-10am.  We saw sea lions, a couple of penguins, and lots of birds.  It can get chilly on the water, so bring some layers!

After the boat tour, we had 45 minutes to grab lunch before our scheduled tour of the Paracas Reserve site at 11am.  This isn’t a lot of time, so we were quite rushed.  Make sure to bring some snacks!

We arrived back in Paracas at 12pm, and had our scheduled drive to Huacachina at 1:00pm.  Again, not a lot of time to eat.  It gave us enough time to pick up our luggage at our hostel and then get back on the bus towards Huachachina.

Once we arrived in Huachachina at 2:30pm, we had until 4:00pm for our scheduled Sand Boarding and Buggy outing.   This gives you a bit more time to eat, but it had to be fast!

We went Sandboarding and Buggying which was SO much fun (even for someone who is usually scared of that type of thing).  We got back to Huacachina at supper-time for finally a proper meal.

Day 5:  Huacachina and bus ride to Nazca/Cusco.

The next day we had the morning to explore Huacachina. In the morning we walked up one of the giant Sand Dunes that surround Huacachina.  It took almost 1 hour to get to the top!  The view was so cool, and going back down the sand dune was a lot of fun too.

We then went for a swim at our hotel, and had lunch before going on our overnight bus to Cusco.   The first half of the bus tour was great, we got to have a tour of the slave tunnels.  But we missed the Nazca viewpoint because of Peru Hop losing our reserved bus seats.

Day 6: Overnight bus trip to Cusco.

This was pretty much the day from hell.  This was because Peru Hop lost our seat reservations and put us on a public bus instead. We had a guide with us the entire time luckily!  The public bus was late, takes you on a very windy road, and they aren’t as comfortable as the Peru Hop buses.  There was also a strike, so the roads were blocked off and we had to wait for this to clear up.

After a long night and day of being on the bus, we arrived in Cusco at 5:30pm.  Not much happened that day, except we got lost in Cusco because our Airbnb gave us the wrong address, so we spent ages wandering around Cusco asking people where to go.  We also felt out of breath/sick from the altitude.  We were glad to finally be in our apartment!

Where to Stay in Cusco: I would recommend staying in the San Blas neighbourhood. A very charming neighbourhood with cobblestone streets, restaurants, beautiful viewpoints, marketplaces, and the signature blue door on the majority of buildings.

Tip:  Bring an external charger with you so that you will NEVER be without a cell phone, it was our saving grace that day!  Buy a local SIM card too so that you don’t have to rely on finding wifi!

Day 7:  Day in Cusco

Finally a nice, relaxing and leisurely day in Cusco!  Since we were acclimatizing to the altitude, we took it easy this day.  We slowly wandered around the San Blas neighbourhood (this is where our apartment was, and a very nice area).  We also walked around the main square in Cusco, and went to the market.  We also stopped by our Alpaca Expeditions office to pay the balance for our trek to Machu Picchu and get our briefing.

Day 8:  Day tour to the Pisac Ruins, Market and Animal Sanctuaries.

We took a day tour with Taxidatum to the Pisac Ruins, Pisac Market and two animal sanctuaries.  We opted for the private day tour with Taxidatum, because we were able to explore at our leisure. I would highly recommend this tour! It was safe and the cost of the tour is set (so no negotiating needed!).

Day 9:  Hike to Machu Picchu.

Since the 4 day Inca Trail hike for May sold out literally 3 weeks after bookings became open, we decided to do the 2 day hike with 1 night spent in a hotel.  I personally didn’t mind because we got to see Machu Picchu on two different days, in the afternoon and again in the morning.  If you REALLY want to do the 4 day hike, then book your tickets as soon as possible.

Suggest Reading:

Day 10:  Machu Pichhu, hiking up Wayna Picchu and Ollantaytambo.

On the second day of the hike you take the bus to Machu Picchu.  After watching the sunrise,  we went on a guided tour of Machu Picchu for about 2-3 hours.

When you book your hike with Alpaca Expeditions, you have the option to hike up Hyuana (Wayna) Picchu.  You must reserve ahead of time because they only allow a certain number of people to do this hike per day.  I was initially scared to go on it, but this hike was probably my favourite hike that I did! I liked it more than the Inca Trail (read about the hike here).   It only took 2 hours round trip to complete, and we took our time.

At 1pm, we caught our bus back to Aquas Calientes so that we could take the train back to Cusco.   Almost everyone in our group opted to go back to Cusco, but we asked in advance if we could stay in Ollantaytambo instead.  So we got off earlier than everyone else so that we could spend the night in Ollantaytambo.  (read why you should stay in Ollantaytambo here!).

What a beautiful town! For an itinerary for 2 weeks in Peru I would highly recommend spending at least one night here.  I wish I would have spent more time here to be honest.  It’s a small, safe town with a market, the Ollantaytambo ruins, and little alleys with small rivers rushing through them.  It is surrounded by tall mountains, and is very relaxing.

We arrived in Ollantaytambo at 5:30pm and spent the next 3 hours getting dinner and relaxing before going to bed.

Day 11: Ollantaytambo, Maras Salt Flats and Moray.

The next morning we had breakfast at our hostel, and then made our way to the Ollantaytambo ruins.  Since we still had our backpacks from the Machu Picchu trek, we didn’t have any luggage to store at our hotel.  At the ruins, we decided not to get a guide, and explored it at our own pace until 11:30am.

We then had a quick lunch before getting picked up from our hotel at 12:30pm.  We went with Taxidatum again, and our experience was just as good the second time.

On our day tour, we went to Moray and the Maras Salt Flats, which were really cool to see!  We didn’t get a guide, but for this tour I would recommend getting one since there isn’t as much to explore and you can learn about how they work.

We went arrived in Cusco at 6:00pm and went out for dinner.

Day 12: Alternative Rainbow Mountain Hike.

This was probably another one of my favourite hikes in Peru.  We decided to go on the Alternative Mountain Tour to Palccoyo, instead of to the more popular Rainbow Mountain Tour.  I can’t compare my experiences on each mountain, but the Alternative Mountain Tour is lower in altitude, has a later start-time and not busy at all!  We were the only 5 people on the mountain!  We were also served an amazing lunch before heading back to Cusco for about 6:00pm.

Alternative rainbow mountain 2 weeks in Peru
The Alternative Rainbow Mountain

Day 13:  Flight to Lima and Lima Water Show

Our flight back to Lima went surprisingly smoothly.  Domestic flights are known to have delays/cancellations, etc.  To give ourselves a buffer, we picked the first flight leaving Cusco to go to Lima just in case there were any issues.

Once we arrived in Lima, we had lunch, and then went to the water show!  They have three different show times: 7:15pm, 8:15pm and 9:15pm.  The shows are 15 minutes long. 

How to get to the Water Show in Lima: We booked a cab with Taxidatum, but Uber would also be a good option. Give yourself a lot of time to get there, because rush hour traffic in Lima is CRAZY.  It took us about 45 minutes to get there.  Because of rush hour, we missed the first show.   We could have stayed there for a lot longer, but our pick up to go back to our apartment was at 9:00pm. If you want to take your time, book an Uber instead.

The water show! In the park there were tons of water features to enjoy and take pictures of.

Day 14: Last day in Lima and Flight Home

Since we didn’t have any flight issues coming from Cusco, we had an entire day in Lima.  We had breakfast, ate ceviche, went to their local zoo, wandered around Lima some more, and had supper before catching our 9:00pm taxi back to the airport.

Taking the bus from Lima to Cusco: the pros and cons

To get to Cusco from Lima, you have the option of flying or taking the bus.   Going on a bus to Cusco has it’s pros and cons, and is something to consider when travelling to Peru. 

Pros: Gradually ascending in altitude makes it easy to adjust to the altitude, but if you get really sick from it you will be on a bus which isn’t pleasant.   You also have to sit on the bus for long periods of time.

Cons: If you skip the “Gringo Trail” you won’t get to visit Paracas or Huachachina.  They are very touristy areas, but Huacachina was so much fun and sandboarding was surprisingly one of my favourite activities.  

Other Itineraries for 2 Weeks in Peru

If you are interested in other 2 week itineraries for Peru, here are a few other options for what you could do.

  • Go to the Amazon Jungle before going to Cusco. For an excellent itinerary for what to do for 2 weeks in Peru, read Meghan The Traveling teacher’s post. She has a detailed 2 week itinerary which includes Lima, Iquitos, the Amazon Rainforest, Cusco and – of course – Machu Picchu!
  • Fly into Cusco, and head towards the Sacred Valley. If you are planning to do the 4 day Inca Trail hike (instead of the 2 day one), then another option is to fly to Cusco, and head to the Sacred Valley after a couple of days acclimatizing in Cusco.
  • Visit Lake Titicaca. If you fly into Cusco (instead of taking the Peru Hop bus), you will have the time to explore Lake Titicaca, the highest lake in the world. The lake sits at 3810m, so allow yourself time to adjust to the altitude!

Hopefully my itinerary for 2 weeks in Peru helped give you ideas of what to do! Have you been to Peru before, or planning a trip there?  What did you (or are planning to) do there?  Let me know in the comments below!


7 Reasons to Visit Ollantaytambo (the Gateway to Machu Picchu)

A view of Ollantaytambo from the Ruins

Before visiting Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo is the town that you travel through to get there, but is often overlooked.  We stayed in Ollantaytambo the night after hike to Machu Picchu, and my only regret is that I wish I would have stayed there longer.  Here are the reasons why I loved it so much.

1.  It’s close to Machu Picchu.

Since Ollantaytambo is so close to Machu Picchu, a lot of people decide to the spend the night either before or after visiting Machu Picchu.

One great reason to spend the night in Ollantaytambo before the trek is that you can sleep in a bit longer.  Our tour group picked up the people in Ollantaytambo at 6:15am, compared to 4:30am in Cusco!

Spending the night after the trek is also a great option. You don’t have to take a long train ride back to Cusco, and you have more time relaxing and exploring the town before leaving.  For me, it was the perfect way to end 2 days of hiking!

 
2. It’s easy to get to Ollantaytambo

Getting to Ollantaytambo is very easy.  There is a train station a 10-15 minute walk away from the downtown area.  If you go on a group tour to Machu Picchu and want to be dropped off here after your tour, tell your guide in advance and remind the hostess on the train.  The train will stop at Ollataytambo and you are on your way!

The train station in Ollantaytambo is on a busy street with a few restaurants and convenience stores along the way.  It is very easy to walk to, so no need to take a car or tuk tuk!

There will most likely be a lot of other travelers walking to and from the train station as well (even in the early morning – so that they can go to Machu Picchu, of course!) so it feels very safe.

To get to Cusco from Ollantaytambo is also very easy.  We decided to hire a taxi with Taxidatum which took us on a day tour of the Sacred Valley as we traveled back to Cusco.  The best part about this is that we didn’t have to negotiate a taxi fare, and it was very reliable and safe!

 
3. It’s a small, quiet town.

After coming from the hustle and bustle of Cusco, Ollantaytambo was a welcome relief.  We weren’t being constantly approached to buy something; and because most of the roads are cobblestone pathways there isn’t a lot of traffic.

4.  The views are stunning

Ollantaytambo is in the Sacred Valley, and reminds me so much of Machu Picchu.   It’s surrounded by tall mountains, and it has a river running next to the town.  The cobblestone streets are small and narrow with little rivers running through them.   It felt so peaceful.

A view of Ollantaytambo from the Ruins
Ollantaytambo
 
5.  Ollantaytambo Ruins

There is so much to do I would have spent two days there.  There are two ruins you can visit, a chocolate museum, and a market.

The Ollantaytambo Ruins are the most popular, and require a Tourist Ticket to get in (Tourist Tickets can be purchased right at the Ruins if you don’t already have one).

We had spent the night before in Ollantaytambo, so we were able to go to the ruins when they opened in the morning and beat the afternoon rush.  We took our time at the ruins, and were there for about 2.5 hours.

The other ruin you can walk to (which is free!) are the Pinkuylluna Ruins.  We unfortunately didn’t get the time to see them since we had planned to leave Ollantaytambo at 12:30pm that day.

Ollantaytambo ruins in Peru
The Ollantaytambo Ruins
 
6.  It’s easier to breathe!

Ollantaytambo is 2792m above sea level.  Cusco is located 3399m above sea level.  If you are just arriving in Cusco, or are having trouble adjusting to the altitude, Ollantaytambo is a good place to acclimatize.   It was nice to be able to walk around and explore the ruins without getting extremely out of breathe (compared to Cusco!).

 
7.  It’s close to Maras and Moray

When we decided to spend the extra night in Ollantaytambo, Alpaca Expeditions was kind enough to offer to pick us up the next day at 6:00pm.  We decided to book a day tour with Taxidatum instead so that we could explore Maras Salt Flats and Moray as we headed back to Cusco.

Moray is located about 30 minutes away from Ollantaytambo, so it saved a lot of driving back and forth from Cusco.

Our trip to Moray and Maras on our way back from Ollantaytambo

Where to Stay

We stayed at the Ollantaytampu Hostel Patacalle.  A lovely hotel close to the river overlooking the ruins.  It is about a 15 minute walk to the train station.

It felt like we were the only ones there, and we were treated so nicely.  We were able to take a nice hot shower after the trek, and sit on their outside patio listening to the river rush by.

Their breakfast was excellent too.  A chef personally made us eggs and a bagel with a tomato, yogurt and fruit, freshly pressed orange juice, and tea.   Overall it was a great experience.

Where to Eat

There are lots of really nice restaurants in Ollantaytambo.   The places we chose were next to the Ruins and only served small meals like crepes and empanadas (which are delicious, by the way), since that was all we were in the mood for.

Have you been to Ollantaytambo, or are planning a trip there?  Let me know what you did in the comments below!

12 Things I Wish I Had Known Before Visiting Peru

When travelling to another country, there are sometimes a few things that you wish you would have known before going, or a few things that you weren’t expecting.  I did a lot of research before visiting Peru, and here are a few things that I experienced.

1.  Rush hour traffic is BUSY. 

Rush hour starts at around 6pm and goes until about 9pm.  It is SO busy.  On top of being busy, it is craaaaazy.  Traffic laws aren’t followed, and a lot of cars are literally falling apart.  Allow yourself extra time if you are travelling around Lima in the evening.  Book an Uber or with a reputable taxi company too. We went with Taxidatum for our airport transfers, and our day trips to the Sacred Valley from Cusco, and felt very safe.

On the way to the airport

2.  The toilets on the Inca Trail are squat toilets.

Before visiting Peru, I heard that the toilets on the Inca Trail were dirty.  I wasn’t prepared for squat toilets!!  I didn’t even know how to use them  properly, and luckily the one I used had JUST been cleaned.

3.  Bring toilet paper

You’ve probably already heard this, but just in case: BRING TOILET PAPER.  And hand sanitizer.  There was about a 50% chance that there would be toilet paper in the bathroom.  Oh, and don’t throw the paper in the toilet either.

4.  Learn some Spanish while visiting Peru

It’s always a good idea to learn the local language before travelling ANYwhere.  English isn’t as widely spoken in Peru, so we depended on Google Translate and the words that we had already learned before going.  Learning a few Spanish words before you go helps A LOT.

5.  Cusco is cold at night

In Peru, they don’t have heat in their buildings.  A few places don’t need it (like Paracas and Huachachina), but in Lima and especially Cusco it would get chilly at night.   The windows aren’t insulated, so it gets drafty.  A few places will offer space heaters, but just in case bring really warm clothing to sleep in at night.

6.  It gets dark early

Speaking of nighttime, depending on where you are coming from it also gets dark in Peru a lot earlier than what you may be used to.  We went in May, and it was pitch black by 6pm (when back at home it was pitch black by 9pm in May).   So if you’re planning an outing around sunset for example, then check this advance to see when the sun actually goes down.

The sun about to set in Huachachina

7.  There are dogs EVERYWHERE

Stray dogs running around was just as common as seeing people walking around.  The dogs in Peru were friendly, but I wasn’t prepared for how many I would see.  I need to find out how I can save them!

8.  The altitude isn’t something to take lightly 

You never know how you are going to react to the altitude until you actually reach it.  When we hit altitude, everyone had different reactions. I felt weak, nauseous, I started to sweat, and my vision started to darken.  Luckily I was sitting down!  A few people threw up.  Luckily, we were in a bus and they descended again so it only lasted about 20 minutes.

We took Diamox, ate Coco leaves and drank a lot of water throughout the entire trip which helped a lot.  We also took it easy the first day.  One side effect of Diamox is tingly sensations in your hands, feet and face.

View from the Pisac Ruins!

9.  Everything Dries Slower

Because of the high altitude, everything seems to dry slower.  Our towels wouldn’t be dry the next day.  And when your apartment get cold at night, the last thing you want to do is dry yourself off with a damp towel!  I brought a Microfibre Towel that dried really quickly (See what else I packed for Peru).

10.  MasterCard Isn’t Very Popular

Cash is your best friend when visiting Peru, and so is a Visa card.  I was surprised by how rare it was for MasterCard to be accepted.

11. The food isn’t as inexpensive as I thought

Before I went to Peru, I thought I had everything budgeted so well.  Well, I was wrong.  What I failed to do was check out a few menus online to see what the average cost of a meal would be, so that I could budget accordingly.  Before I went, I thought I was being generous by reserving  s./40 a day.  I was soooo wrong!  It depends on the restaurant and how fancy it is, but on average it will cost s./15 to s./40 PER MEAL.   Luckily, the portion sizes are very, very generous so I sometimes had left-overs to bring back to the apartment with me.

Lentil soup at Green Point Restaurant in Cusco

12.  Get your Inca Trail permits ASAP

We had planned to do the 4 day Inca Trail in May.  However, the permits sold out about 3 weeks after they allowed you to purchase them (booking opens in approx. October).  I personally didn’t mind at all, because I loved my experience on the 2 day, 1 night hike with Alpaca Expeditions.  We got to see Machu Picchu twice (once in the afternoon and again in the morning).   However, if booking the 4 day Inca Trail is a must while visiting Peru then make sure you book early!

The town of Ollantaytambo

Have you been to Peru before?  If so what surprised you the most about visiting Peru?

How to Spend One Day in Lima

Cusco in Peru

On your trip to Peru, you will most likely need to spend a day in Lima either before or after Cusco.  We spent two full days in Lima (one day at the beginning of the trip, and another day at the end of the trip).  However, we could have easily done this all in one day.

 

Where to Stay

We stayed in the Milaflores district.  Our research before the trip said that this was the safest district, so we chose here.  We stayed in two different AirBnBs, and they were both close to Julio de 28 Ave.  This street was close-by to everything we wanted to do, and perfect for spending the day in Lima.

 

How to get to & from the Airport

On our first day in Lima, we arrived VERY early in the morning (at about 12:45AM).   Book your taxi in advance!  There aren’t a lot of regulations for taxis in Peru, so literally anyone who owns a car can pick you up.  Robberies are known to happen as well.  A lot of the taxis that we saw on the road were literally falling apart, so making sure you book safe transportation is important.

You can check this website for a list of registered taxis that are recommended by the government.

We decided to go with Taxidatum. We used them for all of our airport transportation, and even to go on day tours from Cusco.  They were on time, and drove safely.  I would highly recommend them.

This is what a LOT of cars in Peru looked like. Don’t worry though – NONE of the Taxidatum and other registered taxies looked like this.

 

Morning

After sleeping in, we went out for breakfast in the Lacromar Shopping Area.  There are lots of restaurants here with amazing views of the ocean.  We chose to go to Tanta to eat for breakfast, and it was delicious!  The service was SO good, and he even remembered us when we returned at the end of our trip – 12 days later!

After breakfast, we spent the rest of the morning walking along the waterfront.  We visited the Parque del Amor which is along the water, and Parque John F. Kennedy to see all of the local cats, and stopped inside a church that is next to the Park.  We also went to a near-by grocery store to pick up some snacks.

Parque del Amor

 

Afternoon

Apparently the best place to eat Ceviche is at Punto Azul.  The locals recommended it to us, and the long wait time to get in also gave us a hint that it was THE place to eat, especially if you only have one day in Lima.  But if you don’t mind the wait, or go earlier in the day before the big rush, then go check it out.  I tried it, and it was actually really good.  The portion sizes are massive.

Ceviche! It was so good. Portion sizes are massive.

Evening

On our first day in Lima, we really wanted to go to the Magic Water Circuit, in Reserve Park.  However there weren’t any vans available at such short notice.  We decided to spend the evening relaxing in the apartment and trying all of the local fruit that we had purchased at the grocery store.

If you’re hungry (we weren’t after eating so much all day), a few places you can go to are Tanta if you didn’t go there for breakfast, or any other restaurant along the waterfront in the Lacromar Shopping Area.  We went to Papachos, and they made the guacamole right at the table!

On our last day in Lima, we went to the Magic Water Circuit in the evening. Admission (as of 2018)  is s./4.  It has 3 shows: at 7:15pm, 8:15pm and 9:15pm.   Each show is 15 minutes long.  The park is huge, so allow yourself a couple of hours to spend here.  They have lots of fountains lit up, rides you can go on, and street food (I tried doughnuts covered in syrup which were delicious).

Also, keep in mind that rush hour in Lima starts at about 6pm and goes until about 8pm.  It is CRAZY!  Cars are honking at each other non-stop, creating lanes out of nowhere, and not following the street rules in general.  It took us over 45 minutes to get to the water show so we missed the first show.  Luckily there were 2 other shows!

How to Get to the Magic Water Circuit

We pre-booked with Taxidatum.  After the show, they picked us up at a near-by hotel (so that we would be easier to find).   We also used Uber while we were in Lima, which was a lot cheaper and just as safe.

 

Have you been to Lima, or are planning a trip there?  Let me know in the comments below what you would recommend doing there!

 

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Hiking Huayna Picchu – what is it ACTUALLY like?

Hiking Huayna Picchu (also known as Wayna Picchu) is an option that you can do while visiting Machu Picchu. For those that don’t know, Huayna Picchu is the mountain that is directly behind Machu Picchu, and it is in all of those Machu Picchus pictures that you see.

Before the trip, I was scared to hike up Huayna Picchu.  The trail looked SO steep, and the path looked SO narrow that I was scared that I would fall off.  When we hiked up Huayna Picchu, it wasn’t as scary as I thought it would be it.  It was actually one of my favourite hikes(Read about our hike to Machu Picchu here)

About to start climbing up Huayna Picchu!

What time to go

There are two different times you can hike up Huayna Picchu:  8:00am and 10:00am.

Each time has it’s pros and cons.  If you go at 8:00am, there is the risk that you won’t see the views while you’re hiking up because of the fog.   But at the top it will be less busy because you will be one of the first to hike up.

We did the 10:00AM hike.   The clouds had cleared off by then so we could see the view below.   Also, while we were hiking up to the top, we ran into the 8:00AM people hiking down.  If you go up at 10:00AM, you don’t run into anyone while you’re hiking back down!

If you decide to hike up Huayna Picchu, buy your tickets in advance.  Only 400 people are allowed to hike Huayna Picchu each day (200 at 8:00AM, and 200 at 10:00AM).

The clouds have disappeared. Enjoying the view from the trail (while we are in the shade!)

The Trail:  What to Expect

The first half of the trail is pretty flat, and then quickly turns into what feels like endless switchbacks.  The majority of the path is walking in the shade back and forth on an uneven trail, which wasn’t as narrow as I thought they would be.  It was shady almost the entire time, thankfully, which made it easier.  It takes about an hour to reach the top.

Closer to the top of the trail, the path becomes narrow in a few places.  There are also small and uneven stairs.   You luckily don’t run into anyone coming from the opposite direction because the path splits off closer to the top into a loop.

Sometimes if it looks like a steep drop there’s lots of  grassy platforms below.  If you take your time, watch where you step, and have hiked before, then you will be fine.

This is what the first 45 minutes of the trail looked like. Nice and shady, going back and forth.

Getting closer to the top of the trail the path sometimes gets a bit more rough, but nothing scary!

Closer to the top the stairs get more narrow. But look at all of those platforms next to them!

The Trail:  What Surprised Me The Most

What surprised me the most about the trail was how many pictures I saw which made it look SO scary.  One picture I saw SO many times of Huayna Picchu were the ‘Stairs of Death’.  Before hiking Huayna Picchu,  I thought for sure that I would have to try and climb up these stairs.  The good news is – YOU DON’T!!  The stairs are roped off!  NONE of the stairs you climb up Huayna Picchu look like this.

These are the “Stairs of Death” that are roped off. So no worries – you NEVER climb stairs that look like this while you are climbing up Wayna Picchu!

I also saw a few videos and pictures of this view below before the hike.  These are what gave me nightmares, thinking I would trip and fall for about a hundred years before finally hitting the ground.  What you DON’T see in the picture is all of the grassy platforms next to the stairs.   When I was there, I felt a lot more safe than what I was expecting (thanks grassy platforms!).

Is it steep? Yes. But there are loads of flat and wide grassy platforms next to the stairs so it doesn’t feel as narrow and close to the edge as what it looks like.

Would I hike Huayna Picchu again?

I would definitely go up Huayna Picchu again!  It wasn’t as scary as I thought it would be.  The views from so high up were incredible.  You could see all of the Machu Picchu ruins, the Sun Gate, and the bus road up to Machu Picchu.

I did the 2 day & 1 night hike to Machu Picchu (with an organized tour company) and I found that the first half of the Machu Picchu trek was more challenging than hiking up Huayna Picchu!  The only reason why is because Huayna Picchu was in the shade which helped me stay cool, and I wasn’t hiking with a large group of people feeling like I had to keep up with them.

When you get to the top, take your time and enjoy the scenery.  You deserved it!

The view from the top of Wayna Picchu. In the distance you can see the Machu Picchu ruins and the bus road to get to them. If you look closely, you can also see the trail leading to the Sun Gate AND the Sun Gate itself! The people in the photo show how steep it is, but if you look closely you will see all of the platforms everywhere so it’s not like a sudden drop-off.


Have you been to Wayna Picchu before?  Let me know about your experience in the comments below!

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The alternative Rainbow Mountain hike in Peru: Avoid the crowds at Palccoyo

Rainbow Mountain (also known as Vinicunca Mountain) in Peru, has exploded in popularity over the past couple of years.  After a bunch of research, we stumbled across the Alternative Rainbow Mountain hike up Palccoyo Mountain.  In our 14 days in Peru, this hike was my favourite.  (Huayna Picchu is tied for first for my other favourite hike in Peru).

Here are reasons why to hike Palccoyo Mountain (the Alternative Rainbow Mountain)!

Alternative Rainbow Mountain Hike in Peru: Palccoyo Mountain.  Avoid the crowds

Palccoyo Mountain (The Alternative Rainbow Mountain) is Less Busy Compared to Rainbow Mountain

This is what I enjoyed the most about this hike – no crowds!   We went in a private group of five, and WE WERE THE ONLY ONES ON THE MOUNTAIN!  It was amazing!  Far off in the distance we could see another maybe 5 people, but they were so far away that 95% of the time we didn’t see them.

Compared to Rainbow Mountain, literally hundreds of people do this hike each day.  The thought of trying to enjoy the scenery while so many people fight to get that perfect Instagram photo, and also trying to get my OWN photographs with other people around, makes my head hurt.

When we were hiking up Palccoyo Mountain I was blown away by how empty it was.

The Alternative Rainbow Mountains – not another person to be seen!

The Alternative Rainbow Mountain is at a Lower Altitude

  • Cusco altitude: 3399m (11,150 ft)
  • Machu Picchu: 2430m (7972 ft)
  • Palccoyo Rainbow Mountain (the alternative hike): 4900m (16,076 ft)
  • Vinicunca Rainbow Mountain (the popular hike): 5200m (17060 ft)

When we arrived in Peru for the first time and hit over 4000m, I felt sick. After adjusting to the altitude in Cusco, I was nervous to hit that high of an altitude again. 

Luckily, when we arrived at Palccoyo Mountain we didn’t feel sick (probably because we were acclimatized).  We definitely felt out of breath, though!  We would walk slightly uphill and be huffing and puffing.

Rainbow Mountain is 5200m  high, so I’m sure you’d be huffing and puffing even more.

Suggested Reading: What does Altitude Sickness feel like? And how to prevent it!

The Alternative Rainbow Mountain Hike is Shorter

The hike to Rainbow Mountain is a lot longer than the Alternative Rainbow Mountain hike.   Our hike on Palccoyo Mountain was maybe about a kilometre. However, the altitude made us go a LOT slower, so we hiked for about 2 hours.  There were only very gradual inclines as well.

Palccoyo rainbow Mountain - the alternative Rainbow mountain hike
Enjoying the view!

Later Wake Up Time

To see any of the Rainbow Mountains, you will need to be picked up in Cusco. The Rainbow Mountain hike has a pick up time at 3am. BUT if you go on the Alternative Rainbow Mountain hike at Palccoyo, your pick up time is at 6:00am! That’s right, you don’t need to be picked up at your hotel at 3:00AM!  You can sleep in a bit. 

Alternative Rainbow Mountain hike with no crowds
Palccoyo Mountain

Palccoyo Mountain (the alternative Rainbow Mountain) is just as beautiful and colourful!

Don’t worry that the alternative hike won’t be as beautiful as Rainbow Mountain – Palccoyo Mountain was STUNNING.   Even in the parking lot the rocks were rainbow! 

The view from the parking lot at Palccoyo Mountain! So many rainbows.

Who to Go With?

We went with Andean Soul Adventure, and LOVED our experience with them.  We were treated like royalty, they cooked our group of 5 a private meal which was absolutely delicious, and we took our time hiking up the mountain.  It was truly incredible, and one of my favourite experiences on our trip to Peru.

Visiting with some Alpacas while we wait for our dinner to be made

Tips for hiking Rainbow Mountain

  • Go hiking near the end of your trip. For either hike that you do, make sure it’s on one of the last days of your itinerary! This will give yourself plenty of time to adjust to the altitude.  
  • Bring coco leaves. I found that they helped a lot. While you’re in Peru, you will see them everywhere to buy.
  • Wear layers! At such a high altitude, it can get very cold. I wore leggings, a tank top, a long sleeved shirt, my Alpaca sweater (or a fleece one if you don’t end up buying one), a down jacket, gloves, a scarf and a hat. I was constantly taking off a layer, or putting one back on.
  • Wear sunscreen. The sun is a lot stronger at high altitude, and you will burn a lot faster.

Have you hiked up any of the Rainbow Mountains in Peru? Let me know in the comments below!

Alternative Rainbow Mountain Hike in Peru: Palccoyo Mountain.  Avoid the crowds
Alternative Rainbow Mountain Hike in Peru - Palccoyo Mountain with no crowds

What to Pack For the 2 Day & 1 Night Hike to Machu Picchu

If you are doing the 2 day & 1 night hike to Machu Picchu, you may be uncertain about what to pack.   When you go on this hike, you have to pack a day bag and carry everything you will need for the entire 2 day hike.  There are no porters, so you will need to carry everything yourself.

We booked our hike through Alpaca Expeditions, and I would highly recommend them.  They exceeded all of my expectations and helped made our trip so incredible. Read about what to expect on your hike here.

If you are uncertain about what to do with your main luggage that you brought to Peru with you, Alpaca Expeditions will store it for you in their office.  We paid for an apartment in Cusco for an entire week to use as our base, so we left our main luggage in the apartment.

What I Wore During the Hike
  • Athletic leggings.  I only brought one pair of athletic leggings and wore them on both days of the hike.  What I LOVED about these leggings is that they had pockets along the side of the leg, so I was able to put my phone in there and quickly access it if I wanted to take a picture.
  • Athletic Shirt.   I brought 2 shirts (one for each day of the hike).
  • Athletic Long-Sleeved Zipper-Up Shirt.  I sometimes wore this over my shoulders to protect my skin from the sun too.
  • Baseball cap.  This was a last minute add-on to my bag and I’m so glad I packed it since it protected my face from the sun.
  • Sunglasses.
  • Hiking shoes.  I purchased these from a store dedicated to hiking.  They had a little bit of water resistance, and were really good quality.  They looked almost like regular sneakers with a tiny bit of ankle support.  Wear whatever is extremely comfortable for you!

What I wore on the 2 day and 1 night hike to Machu Picchu.  A baseball cap, sunglasses, athletic top, athletic leggings with pocket, a backpack and an athletic long sleeved shirt.
Hiking along the trail!

My backpack

The backpack I used was just a regular backpack from Walmart.  It didn’t have hip straps, or a water bladder compartment, or anything fancy.  It had LOTS of pockets for organizing though, which I liked.

If I were to do it again, I would get a bag with hip straps so that less weight is carried on the shoulders.  The 1.5LT bottle of water that I carried with me was heavy.  I personally don’t think a water bladder is necessary, because reaching into my bag to get my water was a nice excuse to stop and take a break.

My fancy backpack (just kidding it wasn’t fancy at all)

What to pack for the 2 day & 1 night hike to Machu Picchu
  • My packable down jacket.  I didn’t need this during the trek, but it was nice to wear on those early mornings and in the evenings before and after the trek when it was a bit more chilly.  It was REALLY light and small, so I didn’t even notice it in my bag.
  • 1.5 LT of water.  Alpaca Expeditions refilled our water bottles at lunchtime too.
  • Snacks. (I brought cliff bars, and a few cookies)
  • Sunscreen
  • Bug Spray.  I personally didn’t use this at all, but I hear that the bugs can get bad.  So bring it just in case.
  • Lip Chap with SPF
  • External Charger.  This was great to recharge my phone (which I also used a camera).
  • First Aid Kit:
    • Diamox for the altitude
    • Prescription medicine
    • Blister pads
    • Bandaids
    • Pepto Bismol
    • Imodium
    • Ibuprofen (for headaches)
  • Lacrosse Ball/Tennis Ball.  I didn’t actually pack this myself, but someone in our group did and it was AMAZING.  I rolled my foot on it every evening to give it a massage.
  • Athletic T-shirts.  I had one shirt for each day.   Alpaca Expeditions gave us a free T-shirt on our travels which I wore that evening to supper and on our second day.
  • 1 Cotton Leggings (I wore these out for supper)
  • Underwear for each day, plus extra.
  • Socks for each day, plus extra for the evenings.
  • Baseball hat
  • Poncho.  Just in case it rained!
  • Passport.  You will definitely need you passport, so make sure you bring this with you!
  • Money Belt.  This is optional, but I used this as a place to put my passport and wallet, and I left it at the bottom of my backpack.  On our lunch break, we were able to drop off our backpacks at the campsite while they gave us a tour of a near-by ruin.   I didn’t want to bring my heavy backpack with me, but I also didn’t want to leave my passport and money unattended, so I wore my money belt instead.

View of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate

On our second day of the hike, we were able to leave our items with the hotel in the morning and pick it up before we left.  So I gave them all of my extra clothes & my external charger, which made a huge difference in the weight of my bag the next day!

Packing for an extra day in Ollantaytambo

After the hike, we spent an extra night in Ollantaytambo, so we had to pack for a whole extra day.  The only “extra” items I packed was one extra T-shirt which I didn’t need because Alpaca Expeditions had given me a shirt. I also packed one extra pair of underwear and socks.  I wore the same pants for the entire 3 days (lovely, I know.  But it wasn’t that bad).

Have you hiked to Machu Picchu?  What are your essentials for a hike?

The Complete Guide for hiking to Machu Picchu in 2 Days & 1 Night

Planning a trip to Machu Picchu in Peru is one of the main reasons why people visit.  For good reason too, it was incredible.  The scenery was breathtaking (literally!).  There are a few options available for how you can visit Machu Picchu: a 4 day hike, a 2 day 1 night hike, or the bus.

The well-known option is the 4 day Inca Trail Trek to Machu Picchu.  But if you really want to do this – book it as SOON as the permits become available! They sell out MONTHS in advance.  We had planned to go in May, and they sold out in October!

Another alternative is to do the 2 day 1 night hike to Machu Picchu.  We opted to do this hike, and I LOVED it.   The 1 night is spent in a hotel, so it is basically just a one day hike to Machu Picchu.

A third option (and doesn’t involve hiking the Inca Trail) is to take the bus to Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes.

Here’s my experience doing the 2 day 1 night hike to Machu Picchu.  Hopefully this will help you decide what option is best for you! 

What to expect on the 2 day 1 night hike to Machu Picchu – the short version

  • Day 1:  On this day, you are dropped off at KM 104, and you hike up to the Winay Wayna ruins.   They make you lunch and give you a tour of ruins. If you do the 4 day Inca Trail hike, this is where day 4 of the hike starts.  After lunch, you then hike towards the Sun Gate and arrive in the afternoon.  After briefly stopping at Machu Picchu and taking a few pictures, you then take the bus into Aguas Calientes where you will spend the night.
  • Day 2:  Today you wake up early (at 4:30AM!) and take the bus to Machu Picchu so that you can watch the sunrise.  You also go on a guided tour of the Machu Ruins.  If you booked your ticket, you can also climb Wayna Picchu at 10:00am!

Day 1: The Trek to Machu Picchu

Morning:  Hike up to Winay Wayna Ruins

Our morning started off bright and early in Cusco for a 5:00AM pick-up time.  We were driven to Ollantaytambo where they picked up passengers who had opted to spend the night there, and then dropped off at the Ollantaytambo train station.

At the train station, we were given goodie bags from our Guide which had juice, an orange, cookies, a small chocolate bar, and a 1LT bottle of water inside.  This wasn’t expected and greatly appreciated, so we ate these on the train.   And to top it all off, the train staff also gave us a drink and snack!

The train that we took was with PeruRail, and this had all been organized and booked through Alpaca Expeditions.  The train ride was beautiful, and the bathroom was also REALLY nice.

Our stop for the 2 day 1 night Inca Trail trek was at KM 106.  Normally this trek starts at KM 104, however due to landslides it was closed.  This meant that the trek we were going to do was shorter, but steeper.

When we got off at our stop, we crossed the bridge and we showed them our passports.  If you need to use the bathroom again, they have toilets here but we warned – they are squat toilets!!  I was NOT prepared for this, and didn’t even know how to use it!  I managed to get by though..

Our stop at KM 106
Starting the hike up the mountain

The first half of the trail was the most challenging.  I was out of breath very quickly and had to take a lot of breaks.  Being in good shape helps a lot.  I probably should have worked out more before this trip!

After lots and lots and lots of switchbacks, we made it to our lunch stop! If you are doing the 4 day Inca Trail hike, this is the base camp on your third night.  When we arrived for lunch,  The Alpaca Expeditions team had already set up the tents on the campsite for the hikers doing this trek.

First half of the trek looked like this the entire time
Exploring the Winay Wayna Ruins

When we arrived at our lunch spot, we had time to sit and relax.  I used the bathroom again (this time the toilets had JUST been cleaned!)  AND I ran into a few llamas!!  However, I discovered after I returned from the bathroom, that Alpaca Expedition have their own toilets that are in tents, and in MUCH better condition.  You can actually sit on them!  How they carry them up the mountain, I have no idea.

An Inca Trail Llama just casually chilling

Before lunch, we went on a tour of the Winay Wayna ruins, which was a 5 minute walk away from the campsite.  We had the option to leave our backpacks at their campsite, which I took advantage of.  Since the bags are in the open, I didn’t want to risk it and wore my fanny pack with my passport in it, put my sunscreen and phone/camera in the pockets of my leggings, and carried a bottle of water with me.

The Winay Wayna ruins are SO incredible.  Words and pictures can’t describe how high up we were, and how the scenery went on forever.

Winay Wayna ruins – it was sooo steep! So incredible!
Lunchtime!

After our tour of the ruins, we headed back to our campsite for lunch.  What I really appreciated about the 2 day 1 night hike to Machu Picchu with Alpaca Expeditions was the attention to small details.   Before lunch, they set up small little basins of water and little soap pumps – 1 for each person – so that we could properly wash our hands!

Now it was time for lunch.  IT WAS SO GOOD.  How on earth they bring enough food for everyone up the mountain, and prepare it, is beyond me.  They are truly superheros.  I was blown away by how good the food was, and it was served buffet style so we could have as much as we wanted.  They also refilled our water bottles for us.

Only some of our delicious meal.
Hike to the Sun Gate 

After lunch we made our way to the Sun Gate and Machu Picchu.  This took another few hours, but this section of the trail was much flatter, shadier, and easier.  If you take the 4 day Inca Trail hike, you will be waking up at 3AM to hike this trail (in the dark), so that you arrive at the Sun Gate for sunrise.  I’m personally really glad we did the 2 day 1 night hike to Machu Picchu, because we were able to do this hike in the daytime.

Hiking towards the Sun Gate
The Sun Gate

Once we got to the Sun Gate, it was about 1pm.  A few things to keep in mind:

  • The view of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate isn’t the view that you see in all of the pictures.  I felt a little silly asking if the mountain that I saw in the distance was THE mountain.
  • If you arrive in the morning it will most likely be so cloudy you won’t see it at all.
  • We arrived in the afternoon, so it was a lot less busy – but there were still A LOT of people there.  I’m not sure how busy it would be if a bunch of tour groups started arriving early in the morning.  We found a more quiet spot and sat there for a bit looking at the scenery and taking it all in.
  • The only way to enter Machu Picchu through the Sun Gate is if you hike in.  When you arrive at the Machu Picchu site by bus, you would have to hike UP to the Sun Gate.  Not worth the over 1 hour, uphill hike to get there, in my opinion.  But at the end of the day, it’s entirely up to you!
Machu Picchu
The view of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate
Arriving at Machu Picchu!

After the Sun Gate, we hiked 45 minutes downhill (YAY!) to where you see the famous view of Machu Picchu.  We weren’t allowed to go explore the ruins, but they gave us plenty of time to take pictures and walk around in a few designated areas before we exited Machu Picchu.  Afterwards, we took the bus down to Aguas Calientes.

Before you leave Machu Picchu, make sure to get your passport stamped!  It’s just for fun.  There’s a table when you exit with a stamp on it, so you can do it yourself.

Spending the night in Aguas Calientes

That evening, we checked into our hotel and had enough time for a shower before dinner at 6:30pm.  You won’t have enough time to go to the Hot Springs.  They say that the Hot Springs are full of pee anyway, so don’t bother bringing your bathing suit for this trek!

The hotel we stayed in (The Cabana) was my favourite hotel during my entire trip of Peru.  The rooms were sooooo luxurious. And the hot shower after a long day of hiking, and a comfy bed to sleep in? AMAZINGGG.

Day 2 of the 2 day 1 night hike to Machu Picchu.
The bus to Machu Picchu

Day 2 started at 4:30AM for breakfast.   Our guide met us at 5:00AM, where he led us to the line to wait for our bus.

Some people arrive at 3:00AM to wait for their bus so that they can be at Machu Picchu the second it opens.  Don’t bother doing this.  The sun doesn’t start to peek out over the hills until about 7:30AM.  The buses come so frequently, that if you get in line at 5:00AM, then you won’t need to wait in line for a long time.  The gates to Machu Picchu don’t open until approximately 6:00AM anyway!

The bathrooms at Machu Picchu

Thankfully they have bathrooms outside of the entrance to Machu Picchu that you can use for 2./s. The line for the girls is ALWAYS long (when is it not?!), but it moves quickly and they are clean (and NOT squat toilets!!). If you need to use the washrooms while you are in Machu Picchu, you will need to exit and then re-enter.

Machu Picchu

Once we entered Machu Picchu, our guide took us to the exact same location we were the day before so that we could watch the sun rise.  The mountain was entirely covered in clouds, and as the sun rose they slowly disappeared.   It was so beautiful, and I’m so glad that we got to see it twice.

We then got our two hour guided tour of Machu Picchu.  This is something I would highly recommend doing, because they pointed out a lot of things that could easily be missed.    After the tour, this is where your tour with Alpaca Expeditions ends and you are left on your own to explore the Ruins or hike up Wayna Picchu.

Wayna Picchu

If you want to hike up Wayna Picchu, you will need a permit for this.  Alpaca Expeditions gives you the option to include this when you book your hike.

Before hiking up Wayna Picchu (which started at 10:00AM), we exited Machu Picchu so that we could use the bathrooms.  It is a 20 minute walk to the bathrooms from the beginning of the Wayna Picchu trek, but getting back into the park was quick.

I enjoyed hiking Wayna Picchu SO much, and found it easier to do than the first half of the 2 day 1 night hike to Machu Picchu.   Read more about my experience here.

Whether you hike Wayna Pichu, or explore the Machu Picchu ruins on your own, you will have to leave the park at 1:oo PM so that you can catch the bus back to Aguas Calientes, and then your train back to Cusco (or Ollantaytambo).  Don’t be scared of the bus line. They are long, but move really fast – we waited 15 minutes.

When we arrived back in Aguas Calientes, we got our bags back from the hotel.  We had just over an hour to eat, but since we didn’t want to risk missing our train, we ate at the train station.

Staying in Ollantaytambo

If you are doing the 2 day 1 night hike to Machu Picchu,  you will most likely return to Cusco at around 8:00pm.  I really wanted to explore the town of Ollantaytambo, so we had asked Alpaca Expeditions if we could end our trip in Ollantaytambo.  They were very accommodating and even offered to pick us up the next day in Ollantaytambo at 6pm!  If you decide to spend an extra night in Ollantaytambo (either before or after the trek) make sure you let Alpaca Expeditions know in advance, and remind your guide.

The town of Ollantaytambo is a 10 minute walk away from the train station, and there were a few restaurants and shops along the way.  A lot of other travellers stop in Ollantaytambo and walk into town as well.

I was SO happy we spent the extra night in Ollantaytambo, because we arrived at 5:30pm, and had the evening to walk around the town, eat supper, have another hot shower and be in bed early!  It was a relaxing way to end a busy day.  Read more about Ollantaytambo here.

4 day or 2 day hike to Machu Picchu?

If you are planning to go to Machu Picchu, and debating on whether you should take the bus, or go on a 4 day or 2 day hike to Macchu Pichu, then I hope my experience helped with that decision!  I can’t compare the two hikes since I only did the 2 day hike to Machu Picchu.  I highly recommend Alpaca Expeditions to book your hike, they were incredible.

What I liked about the 2 day 1 night hike to Machu Picchu was that we got to see Machu Picchu twice.  We also had the opportunity to go up Wayna Picchu without being overly tired.  I heard that the second day of the 4 day hike is very challenging (all uphill, and at a very high altitude).  Based on how tired I was on the first day of hiking to Machu Picchu, I think I would have had trouble doing it.  It was also nice to sleep in a bed and have a hot shower at the end of the day.    It’s all up to you and what you prefer!

Have you hiked the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, or planning to go there?  Let me know what you did (or are planning to do) in the comments below!